Restoring Log Homes Since 1999

We have tried every media blasting technique and have realized that regardless of the method, blasting is far too rough for logs of any kind.  We start by grinding the old coating off followed by sanding all of the log surfaces.  Different kinds of log require us to use different grit sandpaper.  for example, cedar can be sanded to 100 grit and still allow good stain penetration, where fir logs should only be sanded with 80 grit otherwise the wood fiber is cut too fine and won’t allow proper stain penetration.  All log surfaces are coated with a penetrating wood stain that allows the logs to breathe.  Most log stains have a hard shell that the manufacturer claims is breathable, they are not.  When the stain starts to flake and peel that is the proof that the stains top coat, either part of the stain or as a secondary clear application is not as advertised.  Finally, all seams and around windows and doors will be chinked, if necessary, using Perma-Chink chinking.

All areas of rot will be discovered while we are grinding the old finish off the logs.  Rot will be completely cut out and the log repaired with new log that matches the diameter and taper of the existing log.

Rot is caused when water is allowed to collect and not able to dry out.  The majority of the rot we see is caused by rain or snow saturation and when we get rapid freeze/thaw cycles in spring and fall the wood fibre is compromised and rot starts.  When the stain has a hard shell top coat the moisture in the logs can’t dry out, this is the most common cause of rot we see.